Gluten in pizza dough – what builds it and what ruins it
Why the same recipe turns floppy with one flour and springy with another. The gluten network explained, with the windowpane test and what builds or ruins it.
Quick answer: gluten is the network of the proteins glutenin and gliadin that forms when flour and water are mixed and worked. The network traps the carbon dioxide from fermentation and gives the dough its chew. How strong it gets depends on the quality of the flour, the amount of water and how much work (kneading or resting) you put in.
Protein isn’t the whole story
The protein figure on the flour bag (see protein content) gives you a hint, but says nothing about the quality of the proteins – two flours with the same protein content can behave completely differently. That is why professional bakers use the W value instead, which measures the dough’s actual strength and extensibility in an alveograph.
How to build the network
Gluten forms both through mechanical work (kneading) and through time (resting/autolyse, see autolyse). Too weak a network makes the dough spread out and lose its shape; an overworked network turns tough and shrinks back every time you try to stretch it. The goal for Neapolitan dough is a network strong enough to hold its shape but still loose enough to give an airy, irregular crumb.
If the dough feels tough and shrinks back despite proper resting, read dough shrinks back. The full recipe with the right balance is in Neapolitan pizza dough.
